Boyce Thompson Institute, built in 1924 and abandoned in the 1990s, was an empty brick shell in Yonkers that Tom Haynes of Haynes Architecture P.C. transformed in 2017 into what is the most evocative of Fortina’s four locations. Graffitied walls were retained, to lend an urban/industrial vibe, with soaring 35-foot-high cathedral ceilings and a Goddess of Wheat mural that stands tall in the barroom, overlooking a sunken, wraparound, concrete bar.