The baking starts early (4:30 a.m.) for Estelle Rocton-Pailhes, a Normandy native and NewRo resident whose pastry-chef mother trained under the famed Gaston Lenôtre. Rocton-Pailhes’ baking pedigree is perhaps most manifest in her baguette, which sports a crispy exterior, balanced soft-chew interior, and a fresh-from-the-oven smell.