The vibe at La Rosa is exactly like those old-school pizzerias with wide booths, ceiling fans, and exposed-brick walls. The bar used to be a soda fountain. The oven, which turns out ethereally crispy, chewy, charred-in-places pies, is from 1924. There’s a spectacular white pie on the menu with house-made mozzarella, clouds of ricotta, and sharp pecorino, balanced by jammy caramelized onions and toasted sesame seeds — but you’ll also find toppings Nonna would scoff at, like kale, purple Peruvian potatoes, and garlic confit.