Irvington could pass for small-town Texas thanks to the authentic ’cue at Jacob Styburski’s counter-service shop. The brisket (true aficionados know to ask for the marbled moist cut) is exactly like you’d find in the Lone Star State, seasoned aggressively with salt and coarsely cracked Malabar pepper and slow-smoked until it’s lusciously tender and rich, with plenty of stick-to-your-fingers barks.
